White Elizabethan Look

Sue wanted us to create a white Elizabethan look using a white base, blusher and white eyelashes and eyebrows. This could be a typical Elizabethan look or a contemporary version. I decided to go for a typical simple Elizabethan look to see what it looked like as whole look with modern products. 
Products used
- Illamasqua skin base
- White supra colour - eyebrows and eyelashes
- pink kryolan blush - cheeks and lips
Tools

-Foundation brush

-buffing brush

-blush brush

-mascara wand

-powder puff

-angled brush

I used the blush on the lips as I knew that Elizabethan women had coloured lips but it wasn't a lipstick formula therefore I did not think it was appropriate to use my lip palette. I placed the blush on the apples of the cheeks to create a more circular shape. Elizabethan women had pale or no eyebrows therefore I blocked in my eyebrows with the white supra colour as this was thicker in consistency. As I have naturally dark eyebrows I found it harder to whiten them completely as I tried to avoid getting it on the skin. I also found that the white on the eyelashes was not as visible as the supra colour does not have a curling effect on the eyelashes like modern mascara.
I was really pleased with the overall look as I was able to see the difference between historical Elizabethan and modern day make-up. It also amazes me how much make-up has developed over the years and the amount of products that people know use. Nowadays people want the opposite to what Elizabethan women wanted. 

Elizabethan Inspired 

The white Elizabethan look that I completed was created due to the white complexions that women in that era were seen wearing. A white face was seen as healthy and was a look that every woman desired. Images from the Elizabethan era were noticeable due to this aspect seen on all women. A white face was a typical look and therefore I could easily create this with the products I had.  They used cosmetics and products to change the colour of their skin. I had to use products on top of my original skin colour to change this. 

Alex's Design Notes For Me

Tools. 

-foundation brush 

-powder triangle 

- contour brush 

-blush brush 

- flat brush

-water 

-blending brush 

-2x angled brush
- Mascara wand

Products. 

- illamasqua skin base

- maybelline matte foundation 

- Illamasqua powder 

- illamasqua sculpting duo

- kryolan blusher palette 

- kryolan eyeshadow palette - red 

- Mac pallete 
- White supra colour

- kryolan lip pallete 

- gloss 

Instructions. 

- Mix foundation with Illamasqua skin base to lighten it and apply all over face. Be aware of ears, neck and hairline as it is paler than clients natural skin tone. 

- Powder all of face to set the base. 

- Apply the contour shade to the cheeks and forehead to brighten the face. Apply a small amount of pink blusher but so it is still visible on the skin. 

- Wet the eyeshadow colour to form a paste. Apply this under eyebrow and down and down the sides of the nose. Add onto lid and be sure to not apply on the inner corners of the eyes. Feather on the edges so they go upwards. Apply same eyeshadow to edges and blend to hairline. Be sure to make sure the colours are blended. 

- Line eyelids with brown/purple shade. 

- With the same shade fill in the eyebrows making them point at the end. 
- Use mascara wand to apply the white to the eyes.

- Apply pale lip colour on lip and then darker colour in the middle. Make sure it is visible on the lip. Apply gloss to lighter section. 

My Design Notes For Alex

Tools. 

- foundation brush 

- x3 flat brushes 

- powder brush 

- blush brush 

- blending brush 

- mascara wand

- angled brush 

- tweezers 

Products. 

- kryolan foundation palette 

- kryolan supra colour in white 

- kryolan blusher palette pink/pale pink 

- kryolan eyeshadow palette 

- gold - illamasqua liquid metals 

- kryolan lip pallete 

- jewel adornments 

- illamasqua white eyeshadow 

- illamasqua pressed powder 

Instructions. 

- Apply foundation all over face. Don't need to pay as much attention around the eyes due to the white that will be placed over the top. 

- In between the eyebrows draw a heart shape in both directions, finishing just above the cheeks. 

- Fill in all of the heart making sure to make the lines as straight as possible. Cover eyes, under eyes and nose with product. 

- When reaching the cheeks apply less product and work in a downwards motion. The white needs to blend in with the foundation. 

- Using a white powder, apply this at the bottom to help blend the white into the base. 

- Outline the heart with the pink powder. Pull this upwards towards the hairline and be sure to blend. 

- Using the same colour create a contour at the cheeks and add a purple shade to deepen this. Apply this under the neck and chin. 

- Place the gold colour all over the lids and blend with a pink eyeshadow. To deepen this add a darker pink in the crease and blend it outwards and upwards. 

- Block out the eyebrows using the white supra colour. Go in the opposite direction of the hairs to begin with and then in the natural direction. 

- Use the same white on the eyelashes. 

- For the lips mix together the pink and red shade so it is similar to the pink on the cheeks and forehead. Add the same gold colour into the middle of the lips and apply thoroughly. 

- Using eyelash glue apply the jewels on the outline of the heart at the top. Apply around 5/6 so they line the top of the heart. 

Developing My Ideas and Inspiration

As I looked through my face charts I was deciding on which idea would best fit my lady in waiting, whilst still showing inspiration from the Elizabethan era to give to my partner. I chose the pink and gold themed look. I'm focusing my inspiration from the colours used in the era and this look showed the most amount of symbolism. 
Symbolism in my design:
Gold - wealth, egotistical, passionate, achievement, optimistic 
pink -  romance, love, calm
red - power, strength, passion, desire, manipulative 
purple - royalty, cruelty
Jewels on the face - show purity and wealth
I changed my initial idea and created another face chart incorporating the colours on the face. I wanted the colours to be a symbol of my lady in waiting's personality and her background. 
Make-up
When looking at developing my make-up look, I have decided I want the white around the eyes to be a lot brighter and then blended into the foundation around the rest of the face. I also want the gold and pink to be the two 'stand out' colours on my final look. To show inspiration from the Elizabethan era I will incorporate jewels onto the head to define the heart shape on the forehead. They will add something different to the look and will symbolise the wealth and purity of Elizabethan women. 

Inspiration
As I wanted to develop and improve my final idea I decided to research a range of images and make-up artists work to see if I could find any inspiration. I knew that I wanted to focus on pink, red and gold as my primary colours.  These four images stood out to me as I loved an aspect of each one and are the inspirations for my final idea. I know for definite that I want gold on the eyelid, blended together with pink. Having white around the eye was something I had planned to originally do, however the right image clarifies to me that it is effective and shows an aspect of the Elizabethan era. I also know that I want white eyelashes as it will make the gold and pink on the eye stand out more. 

I then decided to look at a range of make-up artist's work to see if I could find any other inspiration and ideas from them. I came across a particular campaign by Marcus Meyer called Golden Beauty Editorial. He loved metallic make-up and the effect it had on the face. He believes that make-up can be placed all over the face and especially not just the eyes. This is why in this shoot he had the make-up on the eyes and around them in all different directions. I was really inspired by this look and the metallic style of it. As I will be using metallic gold on the eyes and lips, this look is great inspiration for me. I like the deep contour on the face which is what I will be creating in my design using red, pink and purple to define the face. I feel using a metallic gold colour shows a contemporary take on the Elizabethan's make-up. Gold was often seen in their clothing as a symbol of wealth, therefore I want to incorporate this on the face in my make-up design. 

Pat McGrath

Through following a range of beauty accounts and make-up artist's on Instagram, I was fascinated by the latest work from Pat McGrath. She recently announced the launch of her new beauty product. It is a beautiful gold paint, that can be used on skin, eyes and lips and will be launched later this year. She first showcased this new product in the Prada Spring 2016 runway. As I saw this, it reminded me how powerful and striking gold is as a colour.  I feel that using gold in my look will help portray the power of my lady in waiting. Seeing gold being used my McGrath, shows it is a current modern day colour used throughout fashion.  I will be featuring gold on the eyelid and want it to stand out as much as possible, therefore I will ask my partner to place as much product on as possible. 

Hair and Clothing Ideas
Even though we will be assessed on our make-up design, we can still think of the overall look. This includes the hair and what the model will be wearing if you are to photograph lower than the shoulders.  I want the hair to be simple and in a middle parting so the attention is not drawn away from the make-up. For clothing I am thinking of something simple, for example a top with a collar or a high roll necked jumper.  

Elizabethan Inspiration
As well as modern day inspiration I looked at Elizabethan portraiture and takes on Elizabethan make-up from the film Elizabeth. I want to take typical aspects of Elizabethan make-up but make them contemporary. Having looked at all these images I want to feature pink around the face as this was seen on every Elizabethan women. I will also have the lips pink but brighter with gold placed in the middle. I don't want to feature a full white face however I want to have white around the eyes and then blended into the base, therefore showing both Elizabethan and contemporary styles. Similar to the image in the middle, I am going to block out the eyebrows so they are not visible. Looking at Elizabethan portraiture has helped me to decide on my final idea as I am able to see what was worn during the era and change the typical Elizabethan make-up to something contemporary. The image on the left is a contemporary take on Elizabethan hair and make-up. A light coloured base as been used as well as the main feature colour being pink. 

References

(no date) Available at: http://fashionista.com/2015/10/pat-mcgrath-gold-pigment (Accessed: 20 November 2015).

GLAMOUR tries out Pat McGrath’s GOLD 001 (2015) Available at: http://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/news/beauty/2015/10/pat-mcgrath-gold-oo1-limited-edition-gold-pigment (Accessed: 20 November 2015).

Behance (no date) Available at: https://www.behance.net/gallery/11170559/Golden-Beauty-for-AFF (Accessed: 20 November 2015).

Behance (no date) Available at: https://www.behance.net/Marnusmeyer (Accessed: 20 November 2015).

Golden Beauty editorial by Marnus Meyer (no date) Available at: http://ko-te.com/en/beauty/golden-beauty-editorial-by-marnus-meyer (Accessed: 20 November 2015).

Color symbolism theories (no date) Available at: http://www.colormatters.com/color-symbolism/color-symbolism-theories (Accessed: 20 November 2015).

#1 Alex's Idea

I completed Alex's final look on herself. She wanted a paler face however not a complete white face. I therefore mixed her correct foundation shade that she uses normally and then added the Illamasqua skin base to make it paler than her natural skin tone. She wanted a very natural look on the face as the main focus is on the eyes. I contoured the cheeks lightly using the Illamasqua sculpting palette and added bronzer to the forehead. I then added a pink blush from the Kryolan blush palette to add warmth to the cheeks. On the eyes I used the red kryolan eyeshadow. Sue mentioned to us about wetting the eyeshadow to create a paste like texture that's more pigmented. I used the eyes shadow first however it was not as pigmented as Alex desired. In her design she wanted to add black into the crease however I wetted the eyeshadow and tried it on the lid. It was very pigmented and created a beautiful colour. As the eyeshadow had changed in texture it was not possible to add the black into the crease as it did not blend. Alex therefore had to change her design as what she initially wanted was not possible.   Alex did not want the colour in the corners of her eye so I started 3/4 of the way in. I went all the way up to the eyebrow and further out. I them feathered the edges. When I had completed the whole look she did not want the edges of the eyes to be as curved but wanted a more blended look. I added the same coloured eyeshadow and blended it outwards towards to hairline, ensuring that it was blended together with the first layer of colour. I also bought the colour down the nose slightly. I used a purple shade to colour in the eyebrows and to line the lid. She wanted the eyebrows to be angled so I used an angled brush to create this. For the eye lashes I used the white supra colour and used the same technique we had been taught to apply mascara. Finally on the lips I used a nude colour from the kryolan lip palette and a berry colour to create an ombré effect. The darker colour was placed in the middle of the lip rather the outer edges. To enhance the lip and give a more contemporary feel I added a nude gloss over it the lips. 

Overall I found Alex's look very simple to complete as there aren't many detailed aspects to the design. The simple look allows the focus to be on the eyes which Alex desired. I found that I completed it quickly so I am not worried about the timed aspect of the assessment. On the day I will ensure that I work professionally and make sure every section of her design is perfected. The hardest part will be creating a straight line down the nose, however using an angled brush this should be easier to complete. As the base colour will be lighter than her natural skin tone I will ensure that it is blended well into the hairline, down the neck and the ears. By doing this, the difference in colour will not be seen when I photograph her final look. 

Face Chart and Trial

After creating three face charts I decided to develop one my favourite idea by changing specific sections of it. I wanted to add more definition into the face and to some how incorporate white to show inspirations from the Elizabethan era. 

Products used - 

Kryolan foundation palette

Kryolan white supra colour

Illamasqua white eyeshadow

Kryolan Blush palette - mixture of TO and R 21

Kryolan eyeshadow palette - 

Illamasqua liquid metal - gold 

Kyolan lip palette - 

Jewel adornments

Foundation brush

Powder puff

Blush brush

Contour brush

Angled brush

flat brush

Blending brush

Face - I applied the base, concealer and powder like normal to the face. I then created a defined contour to the cheeks to enhance the features and adding a contemporary feel to the look.

Blusher and contour- I wanted to feature reds, pinks and purples into my design. As I have made my lady in waiting mischievous and playful I wanted to symbolise this through the use of colour. I used a deep red and brown for contour. I wanted this to be brighter so I then added a slight hint of purple to warm up the cheeks. I used a lighter pink further up the cheeks for a highlight. I also added this around the forehead and used a darker shade around where the jewels would be. 
Eyes - For the eyes I first placed a white base across the eye and through the eyebrows and under the eye. I blended this downwards into the foundation I had already placed and created a heart shape around the eyes. As I have naturally dark eyebrows it was hard to block them out with white, however in one of our lessons with Sue that week she taught us how to block our eyebrows. I will use this technique for my design. Through the eyebrows I then placed a gold colour. On the eyelid I placed a pale pink colour across the whole lid and outwards as a transition colour. On top of this I placed the same gold colour and blended. In the corner and the crease I then added a darker pink and red to darken the look slightly. I placed this under the eye as well. On the eyes I used black mascara and added gold onto the tips however I think in my design I will use white on the eyelashes instead. 
Lips - For the lips I used a pink shade that was similar to the eyes and cheeks. To carry on with the gold theme I added gold into the middle of the lips. 
Beading - As I was yet to buy beading and pearls I used a silver colour to create them. I went around the eyes and came down the cheeks creating a heart shape around the eyes. I wanted to include this as it represents the heart shape that was often created in the hair of Elizabethan women. In my final design I will use jewels and beading to stick to the face. 

I wanted to see whether this look would work so I completed it on myself to see what products worked best and to see if anything needed changing. I want to make the eyes a lot whiter to show more influence of the Elizabethan era. With the new technique we learnt to block out the eyebrows I will use this in my final design. I think I want the cheeks to be more prominent so I will use a deeper red in the cheek bones.  

Design Ideas

1. I have the idea to make my final make-up look quite dark but also glowy. I would like to feature red lips and cheeks but through using deep berry colours to give a contemporary feeling. I want the eyes to be quite smokey but to also feature gold tones on the lid as a symbol of wealth and nobility. The dark colours incorporated into the look will portray the mischievous side of Anne Vavasour. I feel this look shows a true contemporary take on the Elizabethan era however it may be too contemporary as the only aspects of inspiration from the era would be the gold featured on the face. To make it more contemporary I would think about making the face paler than my natural skin colour. 

2. For my second idea I would keep the colours more neutral and use a range of pinks and reds similar to what the Elizabethan's used. I also want to incorporate beads and jewels on the face. I have had the idea to place these either around the eyes or in a heart shape from the top of the forehead and down to the contours of the cheeks. I still want the eyes to be smokey to show my lady in waiting's playful and powerful side, however the pinks and reds would show her more reserved personality as well as her power. Pinks were the only colour that women would feature on their face therefore using this as my main colour would be appropriate. Using a brighter colour will show a modern take. Featuring the heart shape will also show inspiration from the Elizabethan era. 

3. My final idea would be to use golds and silvers and deep reds across the face. The red would show her power and the gold and silver would represent her nobility and wealth. I would use golden tones across the cheeks and create a prominent highlight and contour which would show a contemporary take. The eyes would be golden and smokey and also featuring red as a transition shade on the eye to brighten the look. I would also look at placing the colours around the eye and pulling it outwards as well as on the lid to add a contemporary feel. On the lips I would use a nude colour so the attention isn't drawn away from the eyes. I feel this design is very appropriate for a contemporary Elizabethan look due to the gold colour throughout. Using gold would work throughout as it portrays wealth as well as the personality of my lady in waiting.