#2 Bases and Concealer

Technical 2

In our next technical lesson with Sue we looked at applying bases and concealer. 

Foundation is used to cover any flaws and to even out your skin tone. She conducted a demonstration and explained to us what brushes to use for each product and the order in which we should apply the products in. She also gave us a few things to always remember. 

- To test the colour of foundation on the skin always apply it on the neck and across the chin. If you can't see the colour then it is the correct shade. Too light or too dark then it will be visible on the skin. 

- If your client has a patchy skin tone then always go for the majority skin colour. 

- If the client has a tan then always match to this colour. This will mean that their face will match the colour of the rest of their body. 

- When working in the sun always apply sun block under the foundation and in the areas of the body that will be in the sun. There is then no chance of the model burning.

- Always think about what make-up will best fit in the situation. If the model is being photographed under water then a grease-based foundation is needed.  

-Always ask about any allergies that the client may have which could affect the products you use. 

Products used
- Foundation brush
- Flat brush
- Kabuki brush
- Powder puff
- Cotton pad

Process

I had washed my hands including the back as this will be where I mix my colour palette. To begin with Phoebe had no make-up on and I had asked her if she wore contacts. I also pinned back her hair and covered her with a section of paper to stop any products from falling on her clothes. When applying a primer you can mix it with the base or you can apply all over the face before hand. Overall my client had an even skin tone. With a spatula, I took the colour Ivory from the Charles fox palette and placed it on the back of my hand. Using a foundation brush I placed the colour across the chin. The colour was still visible and appeared too light. To darken the colour I then added some of FS 38 on the back of my hand and blended the two colours thoroughly. Placing the new colour onto the face it was a perfect match. I found achieving the perfect foundation colour for my client hard to begin with. When mixing the colour on the back of your hand, it can come across as a different colour when applied to the face. I kept trying to look back at Phoebe's skin to match it as best as I could. Getting to know people's skin tones and complexions will get easier as I practice more. Using a cotton pad I removed the previous colour. With the correct colour I applied this all over the face. 
I started from the middle of the face and worked out toward the hairline. I found that when working on Phoebe I was drawn to applying the foundation on one side and then the other, however Sue told us working from the middle outwards helps to see what sections need more coverage or buffing. When doing this I found that the process became a lot easier. I took special attention when applying under the eyes. It helps to ask your client to look up when doing this and to focus their attention on something. Always be sure to stay in communication with your client, informing them of where you will be applying the product and when you will be working around the eyes. I applied the base onto the ears which can be easily forgotten. This ensures that if the client suddenly needs their hair up on a shoot all the features visible will be the same colour and there will be no lines. Remember to apply the product down the neck and right around the nose. 

Next I applied the two colours D1 and D4 from the concealer palette. This colour should be no more than one or two shades lighter than the foundation. I applied this using a smaller brush and placed the product under the eyes and under the mouth. To cover any blemishes I used a shade similar to the skin tone as I didn't want to enhance these. Once I had blended in these colours I used a kabuki brush to blend and buff the product to give a perfected look. I found that using this brush helped to remove the lines that had formed from using the flat foundation brush. When completing the foundation again, I will try using a stippling brush to see if this helps reduce the lines, as from first impressions I don't think the flat brush creates a flawless base. Applying a firm pressure when buffing, warms the face to create a natural look. I found that using this brush gave a photo-shopped look however some of the concealer did disappear, so I went in again with the correct shade on any blemishes which were now visible again. 

To set all of the product in place I used the Illamasqua pressed powder. I tipped some of this onto the back of my hand. Using a triangle shaped sponge I applied the product across the T-zone, eyes and neck using pressing motions as you don't want to move any product by using a swiping motion. When applying the powder it felt natural to use swiping motions, however I had to stop myself from doing this as I knew it would remove the product. If the client has oily skin then you can apply the powder all over. The shape of the sponge allowed me to press the powder into the corner and underneath the eyes. Once I had set the face I found the base looked a lot better.